Is your surfboard always leaning against the wall next to the door, waiting to be grabbed on the run? Do you organize your whole week around those hours spent outdoors doing what you love most? Are you happy when there’s an offshore wind and do you feel irritated when wind conditions are not quite right? Well, my friend, I’m afraid that you may already be addicted to surfing.
Regardless of your level, whether you’re into big wave surfing or still a kook, there’s no denying that surfing gives you quite the adrenaline rush. But it’s not necessarily the danger that gets you hooked, there are a bunch of other factors that contribute to the natural high: the setting, the anticipation, the rewards, all result in a surge of feel-good chemicals – endorphins, dopamine, and serotonin.
Robert August What I Ride Tuflite-PC Tabla de Surf